Gucci celebrates its first 100 years of historical past with the Aria assortment
Inconceivable to not flip in entrance of those that, passing by us on the road, go away a path of double GG monograms. Gucci phases a social puzzle along with his assortment Aria, tribute of Alessandro Michele to the primary hundred and illustrious years of the model’s life, making a grid of riddles to which it suggests – in each garment, in each accent – the solutions.
“100 years have handed. 100 Earth revolutions that query the movement of time. 100 laps across the Solar to return to that spring, the place every little thing was about to sprout and refract. An essential second to have a good time “ – says Alessandro Michele.
Frontispiece of those idea video games offered in a brief film directed by Floria Sigismondi is theSavoy lodge of London, the identical wherein Guccio Gucci labored as an elevator operator at first of the 20 th century. His surname returns at present from the entrance door, visitor of honor, and inside there may be his catwalk the place there aren’t any folks both behind or in entrance of the digital camera lenses, however the true stars are the names. Gucci Gang, Gucci Coochie, Inexperienced Gucci Swimsuit. The soundtrack is a rap iconoclasm that accompanies each look with the pounding rhythm of a phrase repeated endlessly. Between feathers and clamps, glitter and bamboo, what have we witnessed?
Archival references are usually not missing: every mannequin is a rider with clamps that develop into items of excessive jewelery and whips that mix bondage with the sportiness of the origins. The inexperienced and pink of the Internet printing peep out between a little bit of logomania and self-referential bijoux with maxi silver-plated letters. There may be additionally the press Flora, the identical created by Vittorio Accornero within the 70s and now bears the initials in daring characters of the collaboration with Balenciaga.
The moccasin is inevitable, the boot untouchable, however not for boasting an finish in itself, however to underline how sensible concepts are people who proceed, after years, to be trendy. What the inventive director units in movement isn’t a mechanism of evocation, however of evolution: the previous is the premise for a progressive drive that has by no means stopped and that from the primary using tools has become one of the luxurious realities. revolutionary within the sector. Nothing is lacking, not even perfumery, with the scenic gesture of a twig from the ampoule of Reminiscence of an Odor and the theatrical one in every of a lipstick retouch.
“I do not wish to make a biography sentimental. Gucci’s lengthy historical past can’t be contained in a single inaugural act. Like some other existence, its future is marked by an extended collection of “infinite births” (M. Zambrano) and by steady regenerations. On this persistent motion, life challenges the thriller of loss of life. On this starvation for start, now we have realized to reside in time “ – continues the inventive director.
In follow, the person appears to be like are the summa of a inventive course of that led to floral lace skirts with crystal bustiers, to oversize emerald satin coat with black leather-based giberna that provides it a navy aplomb, passing by means of maxi trapezoidal designs of the jackets, kindly loaned by Demna Gvasalia.
“I plundered Demna Gvasalia’s nonconformist rigor and Tom Ford’s sexual stress; I dwelt on the anthropological implications of what shines, engaged on the luster of materials; I celebrated the equestrian world of Gucci by remodeling it right into a fetish cosmogony; I sublimated the silhouette of Marilyn Monroe and the glamor of previous Hollywood; I sabotaged the discreet appeal of the bourgeoisie and the codes of males’s tailoring “.
Rock and poetry, punk and neoclassical come collectively on this assortment whose image par excellence is a anatomical clutch within the form of a coronary heart, coated with crystals, which is carried on the shoulder, within the hand or beneath the arm, like all feelings. On the finish of the present, the emergency exits lead us to a dreamlike dimension, the place the pure meets the artifice with the pc graphic reconstruction of a backyard.
“I due to this fact have a good time air as a sacred precept of interpenetration, fusion and connection: a precept of existence infused with the chemical enchantment of the leaves. To those creatures, my reward. To their being fragile and weak. Their skill to resume themselves and are available again to life after the winter has handed “ – the conclusion of Alessandro Michele.
Between horses and peacocks and white parrots, the heart-bag is thrown into the air, a handover that frees the maison’s baggage of images and pictures into the ether, confirming that it would not matter who wears it, what issues , is that it’s Gucci.